I had my first experience with genuine crowds at Chek Lap Kok, on the way to the baggage claim. I remember feeling quite awkward as I was squashed onto the escalator with several hundred other people, who were probably all praying as fervently as I was that their luggage had not taken a slight detour to Bangkok.

The voyage from the airport (on Lantau Island, a larger island to the west of HK Island itself) to St. John's College at Hong Kong University was courtesty of Mr. Chak, whose name I seemed hopelessly unable to pronounce correctly, despite game efforts. The dashboard of his van was covered with what he claimed were his daughter's stuffed animals. I asked him what he'd recommend as one thing absolutely not to be missed in Hong Kong. After grave consideration, he suggested the Peak. "You must go both at night and during the day," he said. I took note. The sun was setting as we drove over the long bridge from Lantau to Kowloon. Gazing out at the cityscape, I was entirely disoriented and entirely fascinated; my nose was plastered to the window for the entire ride. By the time we crossed over to HK Island, it was dark, and my eyes were bugging at my first sight of the city at night, shimmering with heat and pollution and glowing lights.

Later, after safe arrival and unloading at Wong Chik Ting Hall, St. John's College, I wrote in my journal:

It's beautiful, it's dirty, the air smells bad, everything is vertical, it's incredibly urban yet there's tropical vegetation lushing everywhere - yes, I realize I just verbed an adjective, but it was a long flight, okay? Anyway. Room is nice. View from balcony at the end of the hall is amazing. I want to scream every time I pass by. Windows have the same effect. Oh, and it's hot out. Hiked down the hill to the grocery store ("Park 'N' Shop") in a little area that I can't help thinking of as 'the Vil.' Bought Pocky and orange juice. Hiked back up. Sweat.

To say that our rooms at St. John's were "nice" is a drastic understatement. In a place where space comes at a premium, we were particularly grateful for our singles (to say nothing of the private bathrooms). I soon came to appreciate the space as a much-needed private retreat from the neverending rush of the city.